Our Towns
High Country Magazine
By Denise M. Spranger
Photo by Ken Gallard
Before you put your foot in the stirrup—or on the gas pedal—we thought you might like to brush up on some Wild West history in this neck of the woods. Just like you’d expect, it’s a tale of gold, desperados and of course, the legendary Santa Fe Trail. But we’ve also rustled up a few facts that may surprise you—or at least give you a chuckle or two to recall.
We figured you probably know enough about Santa Fe and Taos to tell some stories of your own, so we decided to set our sights on some of our towns off the beaten trail. We’ll also give you a hint of what you’ll find there today—though we hope you won’t take our word for it. So go on, hitch up the (station) wagon and see for yourself. Some say that the roads are a little easier these days.
Angel Fire
Back Then: The Moreno Valley, now home to the Village of Angel Fire, was once part of the Maxwell Land Grant—the largest grant ever to be recognized by the US Government. Its 1.7 million acres were the property of one Lucien B. Maxwell, whose ownership was strongly contested in the 17-year Colfax County Wars. In 1867, the largest deposit of gold in New Mexico was discovered here—inspiring prospectors to stake 1,280 claims within months.
Right Now: Along with the graceful Vietnam Veteran’s National Memorial and the annual “Music from Angel Fire” classical concert series, you’ll now find the recreational mecca of The Angel Fire Resort.
Cimarron
Back Then: In the early 1800s, Cimarron was a popular stop on the Mountain Route of the Santa Fe Trail for mountain men, traders and desperados. Land baron Lucien Maxwell made his home here, serving as Postmaster and Indian Agent. The St. James Hotel was originally built as a saloon in 1872 by Frenchman Henri Lambert, the former Civil War chef to President Abraham Lincoln and General Ulysses S. Grant. No doubt the property’s 26 murders contributed to the bullet holes still visible in the ceiling. Illustrious guests included Buffalo Bill Cody, Annie Oakley, and Clay Allison.
Right Now: The elegant St. James Hotel is a bit more quiet today—though ghosts have indeed been reported. Pick up a “walking tour” brochure from the Cimarron Chamber of Commerce and take a stroll to the town’s 18 historic sites.
Clayton
Back Then: Founded in 1888 by a Civil War Senator, Clayton was a true crossroads city—bisected by the Cimarron Cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail. In 1717, it was also the site of one of the bloodiest Spanish-Comanche War battles in early Western history. Centuries before that in 1540, it was here that the Conquistador Coronado searched for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold.
Right Now: These days, connoisseurs and collectors flock to Clayton to visit The Pottery Shop, known for its signature work in hand-dug clay and lead-free glazes. After perusing the town’s shops for arts, crafts and collectibles, you might want to visit the Shrine of the Testaments.
Eagle Nest
Back Then: With the completion of the Eagle Nest Dam in 1919, Eagle Nest lake was born—and so was the Village of Eagle Nest. Though its Wild West days came a bit late, the back-room gambling of the 1930s caused some bullets to fly across Main Street. It all came to an end in the 1940s—when police hacked slot machines to pieces in the streets.
Right Now: Today, the Village of Eagle Nest is a laid-back western town that offers boat rentals, restaurants and shopping–along with nearby golfing and snowmobiling. In winter, you might want to cut a hole in the ice to find your own catch of the day.
Las Vegas
Back Then: Founded in 1835, Las Vegas was once the principle town on the Santa Fe Trail. While most exporters sent their wares west, enterprising Las Vegas sent them east. One of the town’s more infamous entrepreneurs was Doc Holiday, who operated a dental office as well as a saloon and gambling hall before moving on to Tombstone. Billy the Kid and Jesse James were reportedly customers of the good doctor. Perhaps this is why Hollywood cowboy Tom Mix chose to film some of the country’s earliest westerns in Las Vegas.
Right Now: With 900 buildings in nine historic districts (more than any city in the US), Las Vegas is a delight for the architecturally inclined and a treasure trove for antique hunters, collectors and dealers. It’s also been rated one of the top ten artists’ communities in the country.
Raton
Back Then: Although Spanish explorers and Native Americans had used the Raton Pass for centuries, wagon wheels wouldn’t budge over the rugged incline. So in 1866, mountain man “Uncle Dick” Wooten blasted his way through the mountain–and promptly set up a toll gate. In 1879, the Santa Fe Railroad bought the toll road–and the town of Raton quickly developed as a railroad, mining and ranching center.
Right Now: Situated along the rail lines at an equal distance from Denver, Amarillo and Albuquerque, mining still plays a part in Raton’s economy. Fortunately, you don’t need a hard hat or a shovel to enjoy the alpine meadows and rolling prairies at the base of the Rocky Mountains.
Red River
Back Then: Although the Red River Mining Company opened the first official mine in1879, it wasn’t until the1890's that the prospectors began to really dig in—while settlers found that the river-bottom soil proved fertile for crops. Established in 1897, the Town of Red River reported a population of 1,500 souls—though land speculators estimated the number at 3,000. By 1905, the miners had moved on, renting cabins to the area’s first tourists.
Right Now: The frontier spirit is still alive and well in Red River. In the colorfully painted wooden buildings lining Main Street, you’ll find restaurants, shops and a few boot-stomping saloons. Most of the trails of the Red River Ski Area lead right to the edge of town.
Taos Ski Valley
Back Then: Tidings of gold and copper drew thousands of miners in the 1880's to what was then known as “Twining Valley.” But when the Frazer Mountain Copper Company collapsed, due—some say—to murder and embezzlement, the miners moved on. In 1954, Ernie Blake chose to build his alpine ski area near Wheeler Peak (the highest in New Mexico) because it reminded him of his native Switzerland.
Right Now: Becoming New Mexico’s 100th municipality in1996, Taos Ski Valley now offers world-class skiing and the nation’s leading ski school.
Alamosa
Back Then: The first European to cast his eyes on the Great Sand Dunes (just north of Alamosa) may have been Don Diego de Vargas in 1694—but Zebulon Pike was the first to document them. In 1880, the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad was constructed to serve the region’s mining industry, originally running from Alamosa all the way to Silverton.
Right Now: These days, the line offers trips from nearby Antonito on “America’s longest and highest narrow-gauge steam railroad” into the high reaches of old Rocky Mountain mining towns. Adams State College and Trinidad State Junior College give Alamosa the artsy vitality of a college town.
South Fork
Back Then: Just pristine wilderness below Wolf Creek Pass.
Right Now: Incorporated in 1992, South Fork is one of Colorado’s newest town. Originally developed to serve the area’s lumber and mining industry, it is now a rapidly growing tourist and recreation area. With over 13 lakes and 500 miles of fishing streams nearby, anglers are more than content.